Duffy's Collectible Cars Blog - Your Trusted Collector Car Store For Over 25 Years.

By Jon Bratton

One of the most commonly asked question of visitors to the Duffy’s showroom is; “How do you make your classic cars shine?” A cars outside appearance is one of the most important things when buying or selling a car or just owning and taking pride in your vehicle. Here at Duffy’s we take great pride in making sure that each and every car has that freshly painted look, that deep mirror gloss finish that you can read the newspaper in. To achieve that goal it takes a little elbow grease, a few hours, and the right products. With a little effort and some advice from Duffy’s, you can make your car shine too!

Most people have hand waxed a car but have they done it correctly? It needs to be done inside or in the shade, not in direct sunlight. The cars finish needs to be cool to the touch but not below 55 degrees. Use a good name brand product and not one that has been in the cupboard for over 10 years. Use separate soft cloths in a circular overlapping motion for putting on the wax and for taking it off. Use a soft toothbrush (not your wife’s) for removing leftover residue in cracks and crevasses and around emblems. Hand waxing only works if the paint finish is good to begin with.

Paint finishes that are oxidized or have acid rain marks may need a power buffer. Please visit our video “How to buff a car”
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcdnUsHE0OA

where I explain the procedure to restore your shine with a professional power buffer shine. The power buffer, along with 3M compound, combine to give you the best possible exterior restoration - certainly a step above the traditional hand wax. It’s not that hard to learn but well worth the effort.After all the hard work is done, it is a great sense of accomplishment to look at the shine and listen to all the great comments about your classic car. If you do not have the time or elbow grease Duffy’s Restoration Dept can give your car the shine it deserves. Or, if you just have some questions on how to do it yourself, please give me a call: Jon Bratton at 319-364-7000 or jon@duffys.com.

By Jon Bratton

I recently uncovered an old August 1989 Old Cars Price Guide and thought it would be fun to see how times and prices have changed. In looking though the pages, one thing that jumped out was how many collector car dealers have come and gone over the past 10 years and how proud we are at Duffy’s to still be going strong over 25 years. It was great to see the old Duffy’s ad right on the inside cover of the Price Guide.

 In our ad we have many of the same classic cars that we have now. A 1965 Ford Mustang convertible was only $15,950 in 1989 and today we’re selling them for $28,950. I kept going and found a few more; a 67 GTO for $14,950 then, is $34,950 now, a 1956 Cadillac convertible was only $33,500 in 1989 we just sold one last week for $85,950 and a 1963 Falcon was $2,950 then and now sells for $13,950. I chose these particular vehicles because they’re all examples of cars we currently have in our inventory. WOW how I wish I could have bought those cars then and kept them. But then again, given how the classic car market has grown, it’s never too late. In fact, the average increase in collector car values, from February 2004 to February 2008 was 36%, more than twice the S & P Index during the same period. And with the precarious performance of the stock market today, why not invest in something with a better return AND offers more fun - like a collector car!

In doing some more research, I decided to compare one more popular car we have in stock, a 1967 Shelby Mustang GT500 vs.10 years ago. I found an August 2000 Price Guide and the latest, February 2009 Old Car Price Guides and compared them to my 1989 price guide. In these guides they rate a car from 1 to 5, number 1 being a show car to a number 5 which is a complete parts car. Below are the results:

1967 Shelby GT500

Rating           1                      2                      3                      4                      5

1989    $27,000           $18,900           $13,500           $8,100             $4,050

2000    $47,000           $32,900           $18,800           $9,400             $5,650

2009    $241,500         $169,050         $108,680         $48,300           $28,980

WOW! The Shelby has obviously done very well with a #2 rated car going from $18,900 to $169,050 in 20 years and more remarkably from $32,900 to $169,050 in just 10 years. We’re proud to be offering a numbers matching GT500 today for only $105,950 - give Dave or Jon a call to get more information on this excellent investment collector car.

This data proves what I always have thought. That this is a good way to have lots of fun and make money at the same time. Twenty years from now are you going to wonder why you didn’t buy a classic car?

P.S. I still have my 1968 Olds 442 convertible (coincidentally that I purchased in 1979 ) and I’m sure glad I do - it’s appreciated much better and is much more fun than my 401k.

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Written by Jon Bratton
One of the terms you regularly hear in the collector car community is “numbers matching”. It’s very important to understand what this means and how it effects the selling price of a collector car. The term actually started in the Corvette circles and now has moved on to include many vehicles, but muscle cars in particular.
The most commonly accepted definition of “numbers matching” is a classic car’s VIN number matches the stamped numbers on the engine, and transmission of the car – indicating the car has its original engine and/or transmission. That’s all it really means.
In the muscle car market today, a numbers matching engine can significantly affect the value of the car – the same with the transmission although to a lesser degree. There are a few caveats to this issue that you must understand, however, before buying or selling a collector car.
1. Not all cars had VIN numbers stamped on the engine or transmission. For GM it started in (1960) with (corvettes) and for Ford and Chrysler it started in (1968). So, if your vehicle was built before these years, it won’t have the VIN number. In these situations, the next step is to determine if the type of engine in the car is correct – another subject for another newsletter but give us a call anytime for more information.
2. Where are the “numbers”? Different manufacturers and different models of cars have the VIN stamped in a variety of places. On Chevrolet’s, the numbers are stamped on the block by the passenger side cylinder head (except in 1969 when they were stamped by the oil filter for a certain period of time. Ford typically stamps on the back top side of the block and Chrysler on the bottom of the engine by the oil pan. The point is, do your research and find out where the stamp should be so you can verify any seller’s claim. Also, remember there are exceptions for various makes and models.
3. There is fraud. Because numbers matching cars can drive thousands of dollars in increased value, some cars are re-stamped. And while the numbers may match, it’s not actually the original engine. The re-stamping is typically done by milling the block to take away the old stamp and then re-stamping with numbers that match the VIN. The best way to check for this type of fraud is to ensure that the casting date on the block is 2-8 weeks older than the assembly date of the vehicle (found on the data tag of the car). If the block was cast after the assembly date, then you know it’s not the original block for the car. There are other ways to identify fraud, but this is the easiest.
If a car has number matching major components it helps define how collectible a car is and its ultimate value. At Duffy’s Collectible Cars, we check the numbers, casting dates, and engine codes on all of our vehicles so you know exactly what you are buying. If you have any questions, let us know by phone or e-mail and good luck with the purchase of your next collector car.